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Whenever assembling a list of London’s top restaurants, one might expect well-known award-winning names. However, nestled high among these gastronomic heavyweights is a simple salonu found in a far-flung corner of north London.

An Surprise Accolade

This small Turkish eatery, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the fourth finest restaurant in the city by a respected food magazine. This recognition has made the family utterly surprised.

“I’m completely astonished,” states a owner’s son, pointing to his parents’ hard graft that resulted in their humble restaurant achieving such a high ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

The Charm of Modesty

The little venue, which started as a simple cafe before its transformation into a sought-after food hotspot, has retained much of its former feel. It fits just more than 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking performance, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky space,” says the owner.

A Signature Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all down to the cuisine, and this establishment definitely succeeds. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a moist, juicy consistency.

It is then thrown into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in slowly. Once the savoury mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to take in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is folded neatly inside.

It is often eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a mighty burst of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A prominent food critic described this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe goes down a treat. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, giving it a richer, toastier and less sickly profile.

Outranking the Titans

Interestingly, this unassuming restaurant has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place stuffed for below £25, equivalent meals at high-end establishments can run into significantly more than that amount.

A Creed of Heart

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I don’t believe in that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This sentiment is shared by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he was in a position of power, he would “require to make every chef in London visit this spot as a masterclass, to teach them the traps of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.

A Story of Perseverance

Unlike most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food did not train at fancy establishments. “I am really happy of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its success is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum would be really tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she had a social life but her friends would come here to support her. She had children and a house to look after as well. Each of these duties made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.

An Achievement for the People

The restaurant’s recognition is set to have meaning outside its own doors. “I think many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the greater meaning of this gastronomic honour.